How to make cold porcelain dolls

how to make cold porcelain dolls

Making a Doll's Head With Cold Porcelain

Start with a ball of cold porcelain the same size or just a bit larger than your styrofoam ball, as pictured. Applying a small amount of glue to the ball, just enough to make it a little sticky, can be helpful for beginners, especially if the clay is a bit dry, as mine was. Begin by pressing the ball into the clay, as shown in picture #3. May 08,  · Easy tutorial to make fairy doll out of cold porcelain or fondant or other clay you prefer. *Cold porcelain NICRON *modelling tools *3d eyes autoad.

Then life got in the way as usual. I finally got a chance to get back to it again a couple of how to win stacker major prize ago. I have never tried to do anything like this before and I am happy with my progress so far, though I still have a lot left to learn. It is very similar to polymer clays that you bake in the oven, but a lot less expensive.

To see how to make it, you can check out my Instructable here:. Or any of a number of other tutorials on the internet. There are lots of variations and I recommend looking at a few how to file documents efficiently find the one you like best, and experimenting porcelin your own.

It is very hard to match the colour if you have to use a different batch. The first step is to wrap the clay around the styrofoam ball. This is necessary because a ball this size would not dry properly if it was solid.

It is also a little more tricky dolos it sounds. You need to oorcelain sure that the clay is tight against the ball, with no air trapped underneath that could lead to cracks later. Start with a ball of cold porcelain the same size or just a bit larger than your styrofoam ball, as pictured. Applying a small amount of glue to the ball, just enough to make it a little sticky, can be helpful for beginners, especially if the clay is a bit dry, as codl was.

Begin by pressing the ball into the clay, as shown in picture 3. Then gradually work the clay up around the ball, pressing it against the palm of your hand and turning as you go, until the ball is almost completely covered. When you get to the top of the ball, pinch the clay in from the sides, as shown in pictures 5 and 6, ensuring good contact with the styrofoam.

Apply a little more glue around the inside edge if needed. Roll the ball between your hands to form it into an egg shape, as seen in the last photo. After rolling the ball into an egg shape, find the edge of the styrofoam ball and make an indentation.

This is where the back of the head will be. Next, use a cutting tool, such as a plastic knife, to make an indentation in the clay where it extends past the styrofoam.

You want it to be a little off centre, so that you have one larger piece and a smaller one. Shape the smaller piece into the neck. Once you have the neck, use your fingers to carefully push up and round out the rest of the clay. Use your cutting tool to mark off sections for the cheeks, nose, mouth and chin. Use your thumbs to round out the cheeks.

Pinch and shape the nose and chin, and make a slight indentation above the cheeks where the eyes will be. Now use a small ball tool or whatever you have handy to shape the mouth area. Roll it along the lower lip to make an indentation that separates it from the chin, and curve it upwards if you want your face to be smiling.

Push in at the corners to make little dimples. Finally, use the tool to open up the nostrils and mark the indentation in the top lip. Keep shaping it until you get the look you want, but don't take too long. Cold porcelain pogcelain begin to harden fairly quickly porcekain exposed to air and working it too much will lead to cracking. Mine was a little dry to begin with, plus I kept stopping to take photos, and you can clearly see in the photos that I had some small cracks and rough how to put a movie file on a dvd as a result.

Here odlls can see I have what looks like a very large crack. It happened on both cheeks and is the result of pushing the clay up the wrong way when I started hoq the face. I was in too much of a hurry and sort of folded it up instead of gently shaping it. My clay was also too dry to begin with which didn't help. To correct it, I wet the whole area with a small amount of water and rolled my large ball tool back and forth across it, applying light pressure, to try to fuse the clay together better.

I then went over the surface again with the ball tool, using short strokes in the opposite direction of the way the crack went, to hoe it out. Only time will tell if this worked or not.

Now it's time to add the ears. Take the bit of clay you reserved at the beginning and roll it into two equal sized balls in the palm of your hand. Put the balls on a flat surface and roll them out into cones.

Flatten the cones to make a tear drop shape. Apply a very small amount of water, just a dab, to the side of the head to be sure the ear will stick.

Position the ear so that the top of it is even with eye area. The lobe should be even with the mouth. Using the large ball tool, push down on the front of the ear at an angle to make a slight indentation and curve it a little.

Then use the small ball tool to mark a little indent in the middle of the ear, if desired, for a more natural shape. You can stop at this stage or go on to add more detail prcelain you like.

Since I made my ears way what is ms dos prompt big, I decided to make them pointy and turn my doll into an elf. I also shaped the inside of the ear a little more, as you can see in the last photo. You need to give your creation at least hours to dry.

How long it will take depends on the size, thickness, weather conditions and condition of the cold porcelain to begin with. Wet clay will take longer to dry, and very humid weather will slow things down. I set mine on some Kleenex in a small foil pan, just for safe keeping.

It will dry just as well on a table or wherever. I wouldn't recommend putting it on a rack because it will leave marks on it. Also, fold your clay happens to be a bit sticky, it would be best to put something like waxed paper under it. Remember that cold porcelain is mostly glue so it will stick to surfaces. And don't forget to turn it over at least once so that the other side can dry.

So, I left my head for two days and then came back to see what I would find. Kinda sounds like a line from a song. Or, in my case, an average start to the week. After drying, you can correct any imperfections that you might have.

This is one of the advantages of working with cold porcelain. It is very easy to fix, even after it has hardened, so you really can't go wrong.

Knock wood The large cracks I had in the cheeks are now barely perceptible, so my solution seems to have worked. Fo have a bit of a rough spot under the chin and the ears need a little work, which go can't really see in the picture since it's out of focus sorry about that.

I have found that an emery board, the kind you buy in a big package at the dollar store, works very well for sanding. The metal file I have, strangely, is not as good. Which could be because it's older than I am. However, because of it's pointed tip, it is useful for getting into tight spaces, as I did here with the ears.

For the area around the mouth, I used a cotton swab dipped in what causes autoimmune diseases in humans to dissolve the surface of the clay and smooth it out. Be careful not to get it too wet because it will dissolve very easily. I also put a tiny drop of water on each ear and went in with my ball tool to get the inside smoothed out a bit more. If you have used water to make repairs, just let it sit for a little while to dry out again before moving on to the next step.

Now it's time to bring our little elf to life by adding porfelain facial features with acrylic paint. I what color is light blue more with this step than I want to admit. I am going to blame mkae on the cheap dollar store paints rather than a lack of talent. For the eyes, I painted on the dark blue iris first, then added the black pupil. I then added light blue highlights to the iris and finally the white highlights.

Which all sounds very easy, but it proved to be harder than I expected and I actually had to start over a couple of times. Since I was having so much trouble with the first part, painting porclain pupils and iris, I decided I had better pencil in glenn doman how to teach your baby math the rest instead of going freehand. It is possible to draw on cold porcelain with a pencil and erase it just like you would on paper.

I then turned to porceain trusty old Sharpie to fill in the lines without risking making a mess of them. Last of all, I filled in the white. Remarkably, I managed this without messing the whole thing up.

I tried to get a realistic blush on the cheeks by using a cotton swab to apply various shades of pink. It did not work.

Again, I am blaming the cheap dollar store paints. Fortunately, since I decided to make my doll an elf, round rosy cheeks work well enough. Finally, I painted the lips a reddish pink just to make them stand out more. As I mentioned in the last step, I had some difficulty with painting the eyes.

Which gives me the opportunity to talk about how to fix painting mishaps. See, everything happens for a reason. It is actually very easy to remove paint from cold porcelain while it is still fresh.

Step 1: Wrapping the Styrofoam Ball

Although various brands are available commercially premixed or in dry form, variants of cold porcelain are fairly easy to make at home. Made with cornstarch/cornflower and polyvinyl acetate glue (also known as PVA or white glue), cold porcelain is usually mixed roughly one to one (1 cup cornstarch to 1 cup PVA) with a small amount of glycerine, baby or cooking oil or facial cream added to the mixture at a .

Cold porcelain is a non-edible air-drying modeling material. Although various brands are available commercially premixed or in dry form, variants of cold porcelain are fairly easy to make at home.

These oils are added to make the mixture smoother and to try to reduce cracking as the paste dries. A range of different recipes are available and the quality of the finished paste can be highly variable depending on the type of glue used and the humidity of your working area. Some recipes suggest the inclusion of stearic acid available from candle making suppliers , which will help thicken the cold porcelain as well as help it hold its shape.

The cold porcelain mixture is made by heating the ingredients either in a microwave or on a stove until it reaches the consistency of stiff mashed potatoes and can be gathered easily into a ball Note: exercise caution when microwaving the mixture and always use dedicated crafting utensils, not those used for eating.

Once it reaches this stage, it is allowed to cool. It can then be kneaded and stretched until it forms a smooth elastic paste. Barrowdene Miniatures has a great cold porcelain recipe and tips on handling and coloring the material from miniature flower specialist Diane Gould.

You can find Diane Gould Harfield cutters, which are useful for scale cold porcelain and polymer clay flowers , at her daughter's site, The Pedlar's Tray. You can also find a range of recipes, cold porcelain tutorials , and other resources from sites such as The Glass Attic. Cynthia Howe Miniatures also has a recipe and instructions for making cold porcelain as well. Cold porcelain paste is often combined with preservatives to try to extend its working shelf life and to make sure it doesn't mold.

The paste will typically last at least 1 week without preservatives under normal household temperatures if the material is properly wrapped. Preservatives that can be useful in recipes include witch hazel, lemon juice, citric acid powder, and oil of cloves. Check commercial porcelain clay mixes for the preservative ingredients before purchasing!

While cling film-wrapped porcelain paste should not generally be stored in the refrigerator, some recipes containing glycerine will store in the freezer for reportedly up to 3 years. This may be affected by the brand of PVA glue you use, so experiment with freezing your favorite recipe. Remove only small amounts from your storage container as needed and work color into the amount you have removed.

Excess of any color mixture can be wrapped in cling film and stored. Some coloring agents can reduce the shelf life of cold porcelain by drying it out faster, so avoid mixing in color including white until you are ready to work with your cold porcelain mix. When it dries, cold porcelain is a semi-transparent material, so white acrylic or a white dry paint pigment titanium white should always be added to any clay you want to be more opaque.

The use of oil paints as tints is possible, but not advisable for material which will be handled without gloves for modeling. One of the delights of working with cold porcelain is that it shades beautifully, so mix shaded colors and apply dry brushed tints to almost dry clay pan pastels work well to give items delicate shading.

Once thoroughly dry, cold porcelain can also be painted. Cold porcelain resembles sugar pastes and fondants in its working characteristics. It is fairly soft and does not hold sharp detail although it can be shaped into very thin sections with some transparency.

It "frills" and waves easily along fine edges so for the crafting of flower petals in floral miniatures , it works well. Most miniaturists use this material for small scale flower work. This is not a material that can be layered for "caning" like polymer clay.

Most items made from cold porcelain are fairly small as cracking becomes a problem with larger models. To blend successive layers of cold porcelain or "join" parts you may need to wet the main section with a bit of water or sand it slightly to give it tooth if it has dried before you can add on the additional layers. Cold porcelain requires at least 24 hours to air dry. Test your mixture to determine how much shrinkage you can expect before you work on larger pieces or you may run into cracking as the clay dries faster on the outside.

Depending on the thickness of the piece, cold porcelain is generally very hard and sturdy when dry, though there are some storage and display considerations.

As cold porcelain is based on starch, it may be attractive to insects and should be kept away from any other art pieces which could suffer insect damage. The preservatives used to keep the clay from going moldy in its working state will not protect it against insect infestations. Take care of how and where you store or display cold porcelain items. As cold porcelain will absorb slight amounts of moisture and is not entirely waterproof, it may need to be protected from moisture or humidity once thoroughly dry using some type of waterproof acrylic varnish.

A thorough coating of acrylic paint over the surface may also act as a protectant. Cold porcelain models should not be subjected to humid or wet environments.

If possible, display cold porcelain items in protective glass or acrylic cases, which include a small drying agent package of silica gel to absorb any humidity. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads.

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