How to Make a Router Circle Jig
Jun 01, · How to Make a DIY Circle Jig: Step 1: Remove the router footplate. To get started, remove the battery (or unplug) the router. Unscrew the screws that Step 2: Trace the footplate onto a board. Trace the holes onto one end of a long, thin board like a ?-inch-thick board Step 3: Drill the . How to Make a Router Circle Cutting Jig Step 1: Tools and Materials. I don't have a cost for the materials, because it was made entirely from items I had on Step 2: Layout. The base material could be made of any flat sheet good material, but preferably MDF or cabinet grade Step 3: Routing the.
This instructable will show how to make an accurate and easy to use jig for cutting perfect circles with ccircle router. There are many pre-made circle cutting jigs on the market, but they are fairly expensive, and many of them don't have a very large maximum radius. Several of them also rely on a series of holes to control the size, which can be a problem if you need a very precisely sized circle that happens to be in between the sizes of two of the holes.
I will show how I made a precise circle cutting jig using nothing but scrap plywood, and a few nuts and bolts. This basic plan can be modified to make accurate circles of almost any size. Disclaimer: Please practice shop safety, especially when working with power tools.
Take all neccesary safety precautions, and don't use any tools or procedures you're unfamiliar with or uncomfortable using. The base material could be made of any flat sheet good material, but preferably MDF or cabinet grade plywood. Cut routerr sheet goods to " wider than your router base, and " longer than the largest radius you plan to cut.
It will allow me cut circles up to about 46" in diameter. Use a pencil to mark the screw mounting holes, the center hole, and trace around the outside diameter. A plunge router is preferable for this, but not neccesary. I already had the fixed base router that will be used in this jig out, and didn't feel like taking my cirvle router out of my router table.
Unplugging the router anytime you install or change bits is a good safety habit to practice. Clamp the base to a stable work surface, like a table or workbench, with the side you will mount the router to face down.
Then clamp a straight edge scrap of plywood in this case to the base to act as what are the theory of communication fence, or guide. Line up the straight edge with the routeg edge where you marked the baseplate, and parallel to the length of the base.
This will ensure that the slot will be centered in the base. Using the straight edge as a guide, route a slot tto the mark 1" from the baseplate, and the mark 1" from how to share files between two computers using crossover cable other end of the base. If as you look at it, the fence is to the left of the router, start at the end closest to you. If the fence is to the right of the router, start on the end furthest from you.
This will pull the router into the fence, which not only makes it easier to make a perfect slot, but is also safer. With the fence still how to be a field hockey goalie place, rout the smaller slot the in the same tor as the first one.
Drill holes for the mounting screws, making them just a little bigger than the diameter of your screws. Flip the base over, and using the holes as a guide, trace the baseplate on this side too. Choose which side you want to moun the router on, and chamfer the mounting holes on the opposite side. You want the chamfers just deep enough that the screws will sit beneath the surace. Drill or rout out the center hole. It just has to be slightly bigger than the largest router bit you might use.
A hole saw is probably best for larger holes, but I used a twist bit, and it caught and made a pretty messy hole. It won't really effect anything other than aesthetics, but next time I'll take the time to get the correct bit out. I did clean up the hole a little with the router later. The mounting screws are most likely much too short to reach all the way through the base material. We could buy longer mounting screws, but unless you have a set ma,e really long router bits, the thickness of the base may limit the depth of cuts you can make with how to diagnose an ulcer finished jig.
To solve both problems, I reccomend routing a recess in the base for the router to sit down in. After clamping the base to a work surface with the router mounting side up, rout out the baseplate area, using the line you traced as a guide. It's easiest to start at the center and work around the the hole clockwise, sneaking up on the final size with a few light passes. Now the baseplate can be removed from the router, and the router can be installed in the jig using the baseplate screws.
Make sure all the screws sit flush with the bottom suface of the jig so that they won't catch on anything. While the easiest thing to do is buy a t-handle or star handle for jigs, but I'm too cheap to do that, so I make my own. It takes a piece of scrap wood, a t-nut which costs just a few cents, and takes makw a few minutes to make. I make them in bulk to ror in all of my jigs, and I won't go into the mig here. It's easy enough to simply cut out a shape you like, drill a hole in the center to accept the t-nut, and hammer it in place.
I didn't have any threaded rod, so I just cut the head off of a 3" bolt. Screw the nut onto the center of the threaded rod, and then place the washer on.
Slide the portion above the washer up throught the slot in the base, and then screw ho handle on to the top. Alternatively, if you have access to a metal lathe as I do, you can cut the threads off one end of the threaded rod, making a smooth post of a specific size. That way you can use a drill bit fir matches the specific size, and always be sure to have a nice tight fit. The threaded rod with an appropriate what does liverwurst look like drill jg should work well enough for most applications though.
This step is entirely optional, but I yow it might make it slightly easier to use. The base had quite a bit of uneccesary how to make a circle jig for a router, so I decided to cut it off, and round the corners. I also slightly beveled the edges on the bottom side with some sandpaper so that they wouldn't catch on anything as they slide around the circle.
The first step to using it is setting the post height. Measure the thickness of the material you'll be cutting a circle in. Adjust the nut on the post so that it sticks out slightly less than the material is thick. Mark the center of the planned circle, and drill a hole that the threaded rod post will fit in snugly. Set the post at the desired distance from the router bit, and tighten the handle on top to lock it in place.
If you are cutting all the way through your material, make sure to hang the portion being cut off the table, and keep rotating the material periodically during the cut to keep from cutting the table. You could also put a sacrificial piece of scrap underneath the material instead. It's generally safer and easier to cut outer edges of circles in a counter-clockwise direction, and inside edges clockwise.
If you don't want a small hole in the cener of whatever you're cutting, you can use a sacrificial piece on top. Drill a hole in a piece of scrap, and use doublesided tape to secure it to the workpiece with the hole at the how to style a bob cut of where you want to cut the circle. Then just increase the depth of cut by the thickness of the sacrificial piece, and cut as usual.
Alternatively, if a hole would be acceptable on the underside, how to treat anxiety naturally not on top, you can drill the hole only part way through the material, and cut from the bottom. Have fun, and be safe! I have the same fixed-base Porter Cable router and made a circle-routing jig for it. What I'm trying to sort out is how to start the cuttingdo you have to loosen the router height adjustment while it's running and rotate it down to the depth you want and re-tighten?
I probably should just use my plunge router, I guess! Reply 9 months ago. Reply 2 years ago. Don't ever loosen or attempt to adjust the depth while it's plugged in, let alone running.
A plunge router is safer, but it can be done easily without one. Set the depth with the router un-plugged, plug it in, turn it on while holding it securely it how to make a circle jig for a router jump a bit when you turn it onthen slowly lower the bit into the workpiece while keeping the side of the baseplate against the fence.
Tip 2 years ago. One very important thing to remember is to take into account the thickness of the cutter routter you are using, and compensate for half of that in your finished circle diameter. This is great! I came up with a really similar jig on my own. Good to see it's a common solution :. Once you tighten the nut to hold the desired size of the circle, it seems like you will be tightening the fixture to the work piece making it hard to go around.?
Reply 5 years ago. What none of the pictures show is the post that sticks down from the jig under the t-handle. When you tighten the t-handle you are only tightening the post into roouter.
The post then jgi drop into the hole you drill in the center of your workpiece and allow the jig to freely rotate deg around it. Nice looking jig. Having a jih jig is the secret to most of my successful projects. I use this circle cutting technique frequently, but I just take a long strip of fiberboard and set it up for a fixed radius.
I just posted my Cardboard Ball Chair www. If I cut a lot of circles of various sizes I'd certainly make a jig like this. The all-thread allowed for what is low tds water precise adjustments and long radii. I used this to make concentric rounded grooves in an old wood door.
The resulting pattern made the door from a very junky piece to something that looked like art. I love using radius techniques whenever possible. You can do a lot with them.
By tashiandmo Follow. More by the author:. I would think that most of not all of these materials could be found in most workshops. The cost to purchase these items would only be a few dollars. It does of course assume that you have a router to use the jig with. Make a mark on the center line one inch away from the outer edge of the baseplate.
Aug 01, · To use the circle jig: Find the center of your work piece; Drill a small pilot hole and fit the point of the jig in it. Open the knob on the jig and set your radius by sliding it open or closed to your desired length. Remember that you're routing out a groove and that you must take the width of the bit into account if you need an exact size! Apr 06, · This Router circle jig is very easy to operate. Start by connecting the jig to the router. Slide the connection piece behind the clamping bolt and tighten it. Take your workpiece and determine the middle on your workpiece. Mark this center point with a pencil so that it is clearly visible. Apply double-sided tape to the bottom of the third disc.
As a woodworker or maker, one day you will need to make a wooden circle for that particular project. Whether they are for a round tabletop, a shop clock, Your goal will always be the same: The wooden circle needs to be precisely the size and you want to make it in a safe and efficient manner. Depending on the project you are working on, there may be a need to make a circle without a center hole.
That is exactly what we are going to make in this blog post: a router circle jig which you can make wooden circles without a center hole. In the video below, you can see how I made a very simple router circle jig that is easy to connect to the router and makes perfect circles without that disturbing hole in the middle.
For this project, I used my Makita Router to attach the jig on. If you use another brand of router there can be a small difference in the way you will make the connection between the jig and the router. Now that we have gone through the list of what we all need for this project, I will explain step by step how I made this router circle jig. Collect your materials and find the best wood. Together we will build this router circle jig that you will enjoy for a long time. We will start with this step because we will have to join pieces with epoxy glue to make this part.
Epoxy glue takes some time to cure about 1 hour depending on the temperature and while the glue is setting we can make the other pieces. By the time all the pieces are made, the glue is dry and we will be able to assemble the jig.
To be able to slide the rotation point over the threaded rod, a slot must be cut in one of the center point disks. Because it is safer to work with a larger piece of wood, we will first saw the slot before cutting out the disk.
An additional advantage is that if we cut out the disk later, the slot will be perfectly in the center of the circle. The slot should be 8mm wide and 8mm deep 0,31 inches by 0,31 inches. Now that the slot has been cut, we can cut out 3 disks with a drill press and a 50mm 1. One disk needs to have the slot in the middle so for that disk we will take the wood where we just made the slot in. Make the disk by lowering the center drill in the middle of the slot and sawing out a circle.
To rotate the center point of this jig we need an anchor point. We make that anchor point by placing a bolt in one of the full disks. The head of the bolt can be marked on the wood and chiseled. Make sure that the head of the bolt is completely sunk into the disk.
Now we can glue the bolt into the chiseled hole. To have a strong connection we will use epoxy glue. Epoxy glue is a two-component adhesive. When the resin and the hardener come into contact you have about 5 minutes to process this glue and depending on the temperature the glue is dry after about one hour. Subscribe to my newsletter and be the first to be notified when I post new content on my website.
To quickly and easily attach the mold to the router, we now will make a piece that ensures a firm and tight connection. You can also use a piece of scrap wood for this connection part. On the back of the Makita , a small bar is molded into the plastic case of the router. By measuring this beam we can make a groove in the wood that is equal to that beam so that the wood will fits perfectly on this guide.
The connection between the mold and the router must be tight. If the connection is loose, the router will be able to move freely and the circle you will make will never be perfect and will show inequalities. I made the slot in the wood with my crosscut sled and the table saw.
The height of the saw blade should be set equal to the height of the little bar on the back of the router. After checking whether the connection is good, you can saw the block to the correct width, flush with the back of the router.
In order to clamp the block between the router base and the button, a slot must be made so that the piece can slide over the bolt. We will make that slot by clamping the piece on my crosscut sled, setting the saw blade to the correct depth and sawing the slot to the width equal to the thickness of the clamping bolt. To attach this piece to the threaded rod we will drill an 8mm hole.
To determine the height of the drill hole we will be placing the three disk that we made earlier on top of each other. The circle with the slot should now be at the top and the opening of the slot determines where to drill the hole in this piece. After these 2 steps, just touch up the edges with a file and sandpaper and the workpiece should look like this:.
To attach the connection piece on to the threaded rod we will glue it with CA glue. Apply CA glue to the threaded rod and place the connection piece on the threaded rod. The slot should be on the outside and the end of the threaded rod should not go beyond the inside of the slot.
After the connection piece is in the right position, the accelerator that instantly hardens the glue can be sprayed on. Of the three disks we made at the beginning of this project, one disk has a slot, one disk has a glued bolt and one disk has remained original.
To glue the two pieces together, we place the disk with the bolt down on the table. On the circle with the slot, we ad some wood glue on the side of the slot do not put wood glue into the slot and glue the 2 parts together. Wood glue does not become firm until it can dry under pressure. Therefore you can clamp these 2 parts or use brad nails as I did. If you do not have a nail gun, you can alternatively use small nails. The original disk will serve as an anchoring point to rotate the router circle jig on.
For the moment we are not using this one. Now that all the pieces are ready, they can be brought together. On the threaded rod, we first place a nut followed by a washer. Then we slide the threaded rod through the opening of the center rotation point. To fix the threaded rod on the center point, we place a washer on the outside again, followed by a nut.
This Router circle jig is very easy to operate. Start by connecting the jig to the router. Slide the connection piece behind the clamping bolt and tighten it. Take your workpiece and determine the middle on your workpiece. Mark this center point with a pencil so that it is clearly visible. Apply double-sided tape to the bottom of the third disc. When we have drilled out that disc, we have drilled a hole in the center of the disc through the center drill, this now comes in handy.
Put your pencil in that hole I use my Pica pencil for this but you can also use a screwdriver. Place the point of the pencil on the previously marked center and now lower the disk. This way you have placed the disk perfectly in the middle of your workpiece. Now you only have to place the router circle jig on the disk that you just placed on the workpiece. Do this by entering the bolt into the hole of the disk you just placed on your workpiece.
Make sure you tighten the nuts properly! Due to the vibrations of the router, these can come off and the diameter of the circle will change.
Building a workshop can be tough and involves a lot of trial and error. I know because I was there too. Thanks to this training, I gained better insights into building a workshop so that I could spend my budget more efficiently. Do you have an addition to this blog or an upbuilding comment? Feel free to let me know in a comment below. Contribute to our community and share your experience and knowledge with others so that we can all learn from each other.
I hope this information was helpful and that this blog and video inspires you. Let me know in a comment below. Feel free to share this blog on Facebook, Pinterest or other social media. You can do this by using the buttons below or at the top of the blog. I would appreciate that. Do not forget to subscribe to my list, that way you will always be informed when I post a new blog with tips or free plans. Dag Christofix, ik heb een vraag. Volgens mij gebruik je lijm met een versneller of accelerator.
Welke lijm is dat en waar kan ik het kopen? Het ziet er namelijk erg eenvoudig uit. Alvast dank voor je antwoord, groeten, Evert. Hoi Evert, Dat is lijm van starbond. Bovenaan deze blog kan je een link vinden in de materialen lijst.
Ik heb deze lijm toegestuurd gekregen door starbond om te testen en ik ben er super enthousiast over. De lijm is snel en sterk. Absoluut de moeite! Hopelijk heb ik je kunnen helpen. Indien je nog vragen hebt mag je me steeds een emailtje sturen. Christo, I just found your website.